kunev

Some videos that I'm not absolutely sure that are on the topic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkspMBe1W9U

You are happy with the car and that is most important thing . And after installation of the other upgrades I think that you will be happier . I have one question, why your car was not legal to this moment, you don't pay the tax because don't drive the car for a while? What models are these wheels ? P.S. "GTV tb" and "snow" thats are two so incompatible things to me .

Wonderful car with very low kilometers. That is my favorite alfa color and original 916 wheels. If I decide to respray my car in different color one day it should be this . I will make one correction - there isn't 145 Q4. You probably mean 145 QV (Quadrifoglio Verde). Did you think about installing of front strut brace? On the Spider this is very good upgrade from what I have read. It improve stiffness of the chassis notably. - Wiechers steel strut bar - Weichers aluminium strut brace Look at the customers reviews.

@ Filip: Like I sad in my previous post the two indexes mean viscosity at different temperature.That classification of the oils is SAE classification and is most popular. The bigger the number the bigger viscosity and respectively thicker oil (at the corresponding temperature). So for second index (viscosity at 100°C of oil) 60 is bigger than 50 so it is thicker at 100°C. But thicker oil also mean more friction for the internal engine components when moving and also more heat. The first index (winter index - the number before 'W') is important for engine performance at cold temperature and cold start. So for relatively new car with modern engine that index have to be low (0W,5W), especially for winter driving. For very low temperatures (winter) engine want thinner oil,less friction. But these indexes are not everything (like I sad earlier). 300V series oils are different from standard oil. They use Double Ester Technology and are designed for racing. I will quote technical specification of 300V Competition: STANDARDS: Above existing standards. Double Ester technology : maximum oil film resistance, balanced polarity, resistance at very high temperature. Friction Modifier : maximum power output, decrease operating temperature. 0% shear loss : Stable oil pressure whatever using conditions. Maximum anti-wear resistance. Perfect engine cleanliness. 15W-50 grade is able to absorb fuel dilution in the oil and maintains high oil pressure. Engine can run at very high temperature. And these oils are not appropriate for many kilometers and long time in the engine. For turbocharged petrol car 10000 km between oil changes is not acceptable. More appropriate is around 5000 km and that is for normal use of the car . @Thanos: Thanks for the comment on that thread and for "Likes" . I'm not a oil expert or that I have made many research and analyzes about oils quality and characteristics. I just have read some things about that and made that decision for my car. There is also many oil comparison test and articles on the net so everybody is free to read about that theme and to make it's own conclusions . If you think that what I have written is good and appropriate for the other thread you are free to copy it there . And at the end of this long post I will post something on the topic - old pictures of my car

Alfa Romeo GTV 3.2 vs Chrysler Crossfire (with Paul van Dyk) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seNbTid3_Q4

First I will write some more things about fuel system that I don't explain in the respective post. Stock fuel pressure regulator is linear type with base pressure of 3 bar (like I mentioned there), which mean that when there is positive pressure in the intake manifold (boost) fuel pressure will be sum from that boost and base pressure (3 bar). So If you run more than 1 bar in the intake manifold, fuel pressure regulator will allow more than 4 bar in the fuel lines. But stock fuel pump is designed to work on max 4 bar , so if the car is setup at considerably more boost (peak and hold) this will load the pump(it will heats up) and at some time it will give up (mainly depends on how often and long fuel pump work at that state). Another things is that if you run on higher than 1 bar boost at high RPM (max power) your injectors will flow even more. The tonight post will be for engine oil. My engine is not new ('96). For these years and kilometers the measurement and gaps in it have changed. I have been using Selenia Racing 10W-60 engine oil. That is recommended for my car for sportier use by Alfa Romeo hmm. The first index is viscosity at low temperatures. And second index is viscosity at 100°C. Oil with "big gap between indexes" are produced with additional additives and over time it's characteristics (indexes) comes closer - they loose their initial characteristics. But these main indexes are not all about one oil and two different brands 10W-40 oils don't have absolutely same characteristics. And with the not so good price of Selenia Racing in Bulgaria and that performance upgrade I decide to go for some more "performance focused" oil. And I stopped at 300V series of Motul. These oils are classic for racing and performance car and can be bought at good prices (better than Selenia Racing). In Bulgaria most popular of them is Le Mans 20W-60, but decide to not go for it, because of its characteristics. I choose that Motul 300V Competition 15W-50. And with that name it fits my project name (Competizione) very well . I have to say again that I don't use the car at all in the winter for about 5 months so characteristics of the oil in very cold days are not important to me. And one more thing. Due to turbocharger is lubricated from engine oil, when new turbocharger is installed the oil have to be changed so that the new turbocharger to begin it's operation with new oil .

Wow . Maybe I have to begin thinking about opening of car service/tuning center with some peoples from Bulgaria in Norway . For the price of ECU tuning of your engine in Norway, in Bulgaria probably will be purchased, installed and tuned MegaSquirt II (and that is cheapest way for standalone).

@ Alfaduden: That is chinese turbocharger and hence thats very low price. Buying chinese turbo is very risky. Their quality is not very good. It can last long enough or can break after 100-200 km for example (that are real life stories ). And many peoples stay away from them after they bought one two. T25 means that is have T25 style turbine inlet and exhaust manifold to which turbocharger have to be mounted have to end with T25 flange. Stock turbo use T25 turbine inlet, but turbine outlet is different from standard Garrett T25/T28. I think that on GTV is some Mitsubishi variant. I will show some pictures of stock turbo on GTV V6 tb-Garrett TB2538 (picture are taken from one ad in Bulgaria ): and standard Garrett 5 bolt T25/T28 outlet . And the turbo that you show don't have pictures on the other side, but is written "Fits instead OEM SR20DET Garrett turbo." => it use 5 bolt T25/T28 outlet => it can't fit on stock GTV downpipe (shown on the first picture). If you are looking for stock replacement read that topic , if haven't read it yet.

@ Filip: MAP sensor get pressure signal from intake manifold and it is placed somewhere in the engine bay where have to be close to manifold and not so close to exhaust manifold (because of heat). GTV 2.0 V6 tb don't have MAP sensor and ECUs don't receive signal for exact pressure in the manifold and respectively EZ212K module (which control boost with signals to solenoid based on the maps in it) controls in open loop (without feedback for pressure signal). With installing of boost controller you get boost control function from EZ212K module and boost maps in it do not matter. So for example if you install manual boost controler/valve and then you or someone else have to tune ECUs (install tuned chips) he don't have to touch EZ212K chip,because it's main function is boost control. ECU will continue to adjust other parameter based on the maps and functions in it. Stock ECU can control bigger high impedance injectors (his injector drive is for that type injectors). Like I say to Thanos I will write for ECU later in the series. In the documentation for Apexi AVC-r boost controller are shown positions for necessary signals at pins of ECU for various japanese models. But for non japanese car models that signals have to be found on electrical diagrams, so for such case a little researching is required . Here some videos with AVC-r (not mine) - , , .I have to mention that this controller is not something new on the market, maybe more than 10 years. So his interface is not on the level of modern phones for example. In this topic I already mention that I like Forge Motorsport products and Apexi is another brand that I like . I already had probably their most famous item - AVC-r boost controler, Apexi Power Intake filter is in my future list and it time for something new from them . One friend of mine was at USA for short time and tell him to buy me one thing from there and when he come back to Bulgaria I will get it and give him the money for it. And here is what I wanted to buy Apexi Auto Timer. I wanted some friend for the AVC-r . This is original Apexi timer , not cheap copy for 20E from ebay! Ordered from there the price was very go (like many electrical things from USA). His main feature is turbo timer - manually set or calculated by the device, but also have some other functions - O2 sensor voltage,A/F ration,battery. A/F ration is calculated from signal from narrow band oxygen sensor, so it can't match accuracy of A/F gauge with wide band sensor and controller. Here is some videos with that timer (again not mines) - , .After all this isn't something that you need in your car, but I like such stuffs. And this is the end of another long post by me.

I did not know that I was in some league . When I go to Squadra tuning at "price list" section and see that 435E for the two chips for our model my reaction is and when I read post like your above my reaction is (just a little joke ). My opinion is that Squadra tuning is a very good alfa romeo specialist and their chips are also very good, but that price for that exact model (which is also my model) is simply unrealistically high (and even charge 30E for installation by them). Аnd yet everyone is free to make decisions for himself . Waiting for your input after installation. I'm sure that you will be happy with your "new" car .

Tonight post will be for "boost control" . Boost control in GTV V6 tb is managed by ignition control unit EZ212K using Pierburg solenoid valve, which directs air pressure signal from compressor housing to wastegate (to open it and reduce boost pressure) or intake before turbocharger (to add more air to intake => help turbo spin faster and to hold wastegate closed => rise boost pressure). I want to have more options for control over boost pressure and more than one boost settings . So I wanted something specially designed for that task - boost controller. There is two major type of boost controllers - manual and electronic. Manual is simple and cheap and don't need electricity to work . It is easy to adjust - you just have to turn one "bolt" clockwise or counter clockwise and make tests to the moment when you see maximum boost that you want on the gauge. There is also models that have two settings (Hi and Low boost for example) and you can change settings mechanically on them. Electronic boost controller on the other hand is more complicated to wire and set. Except supply and boost signal in some models it needs more signals. It have more boost control settings and 2 boost channels (some models even have more). I wanted electronic boost controller and I had no doubt about the model that have to be bought . And after searching for good deal I bought what I wanted - A'pexi AVC-R AVC-r picture 1 AVC-r picture 2 AVC-r picture 3 Apexi AVC-r official site I think that this is the best boost controller (and probably most complicated ) so it's ideal for my project . It has two boost settings/channels , but it also have off mode and then boost is controlled only by wastegate spring, so basically there is 3 settings . With It you can have: - different boost for different gear - 1st,2nd,3rd,4rt,5th - different boost set point for RMP range with 500 RPM increments - 2500,3000,3500,4000 ... - scramble boost - when it receive signal (from installed button or switch for that purpose) it set boost at desired level for selected setting/channel. and many more features to control and monitoring. For full use of its functions it needs: - power - ground - RPM or injector signal - TPS (throttle position sensor) signal - vehicle speed signal - scramble switch output if you want to use such - boost signal from its MAP sensor in the package And enough for that post .

Hi and welcome to the forum . Another GTV tb on here, our team become stronger . I think that is your car , the nickname is the same.

Thanos is right. Autodelta Alfa Romeo Spider Superflow and another picture . If you go on Autodelta website -> Range -> Autodelta Spider J10 , you will see some pictures of spider with hardtop (link can't be copied and pasted). And some quote: "The custom-built Autodelta detachable hardtop also adds all-season practicality to this fabulous Alfa Romeo sports car." I can't find more detail info or picture of Zender hardtop for spider, so maybe I'm wrong . But from year 2000 hardtop was available for Spider - link (I post link for that site also on Useful links topic). Most likely it was optional factory extra and not aftermaket accessory from some other company (Zender for example). P.S. I have old italian magazines in my hometown and next time I go there I will check for such extra and price (If I had magazine after year 2000).

I have read good opinions on that book on alfaowner forum and probably will buy it. Very good present for every GTV/Spider 916 enthusiast . I hope for some interesting info about my model - GTV 2.0 V6 tb.

I will write some more thing about the theme of my previous post - fuel system. I will make a comparison between GTV v6 tb fuel pump (I haven't check, but probably all GTVs use same pump) and power figures of other turbocharged models -> ---------car model----------------------- | ---fuel pump capacity--- | ---horse power--- | - Alfa Romeo GTV 2.0 V6 tb -------------------- >120l/h ------------------ 202 hp -Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I --------------------- 80l/h ------------------- 250 hp -Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution II ------------------- 100l/h ------------------- 260 hp -Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III ------------------- 100l/h ------------------ 270 hp -Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV ------------------ 120l/h ------------------ 280 hp Thanos: I more like 300, it's nice round number . But around 270-280 hp probably will be more appropriate for front wheel drive car. And for normal use even less . And for other question you will have to wait for later in the series. Joost1990: Thanks .

Nice pictures of a nice car . About hard top, I don't see hard top on Autodelta shop now, but have found that Autodelta have offered hard top for spider. Did you make a detail check on the top for some lettering. Zender have offered hard top for Spider also.

Paso, you are probably right. Alfa Romeos are sporty, but also elegant cars. Better suited engine for the character of that car are bigger NA (naturally aspirated) engines 3.0 and 3.2 (i think that maybe Alfa Romeo had to offer something like 2.8 supercharger for top of the range , something like AMG in alfa way ). And with FWD they are probably enough. But with turbocharged engine in it I want to unite that gorgeous look with power to match. So what to be tonight. Lets answer to Thanos question. GTV V6 tb stock fuel system comprises of the following major components (specs are from the manual): - Bosch high impedance 189cc/min at 3 bar (18 lbs/hr) fuel injectors (15.9Ω ±0.35Ω); - linear fuel pressure regulator with 3 bar base pressure and max control pressure of ~4 bar; - fuel pump specs: flow rate: ≥120l/h; pressure: 4 bar; nominal voltage 12V; Stock fuel injectors are for stock turbo setup. In my opinion even a car with upgraded chips, tuned at around 230 hp will have significantly lean A/F ratio on boost and higher rpms. Their flow capacity can be increased by using high pressure fuel regulator, but this will load fuel pump (and decrease it's flow capacity) and it also should be changed for more powerful one (capacity and pressure). And after all the increase shouldn't be much more (with 4 bar 1:1 regulator their max flow will be 218.2 cc/min). So for bigger than stock turbo setup the fuel injectors should be changed. The upgraded injectors should be high impedance (because the injector drive is for saturated type of control -> high impedance injectors) Bosch type with EV1 connector. The stock spray pattern is 30o cone , that is for 2 valve per cylinders (multi valve cylinders use wide pattern). I think that all Bosch 0 280 150 xxx injectors use that pattern and have same shape (GTV 2.0 V6 tb - 0 280 150 702), but not sure. So with bigger turbocharger I will need bigger fuel injectors and I bought these. Bosch "red top" 315cc/min at 3 bar (30 lbs/hr) with part number 0 280 150 945 (I have also seen other values for capacity and I do not want to argue about that ). Application: Ford Motorsport . I have bought these from one guy with BMW e30 323i turbo, who wanted to get bigger one for his car. He bought that new one year before I get them from him and he told me that they have been used for around 7000 km . There is one simple rule of thumb for evaluating max power that given injectors are good for: ("max flow at cc/min" / 5) x "number of injectors". So lets do some calculations . So from above rough rule: (315/5)*6=378 hp. For more precise calculations can be used correct equations and online calculators. And now for the fuel pump. So with stock fuel pressure regulator (at 3 bar) -> (315x6x60)/1000≈113.4l/h ( ("cc/min for one injector" x "number of injectors" x "one hour in minutes")/ 103 for convert from cubic centimeter to liter). But when on boost the pressure in the fuel rail will be higher than base pressure with addition - boost pressure. But when working on higher pressure the pump work harder and their flow drops.Its flow also depend on the voltage which actually reach it. The above mentioned flow of the fuel pump is probably given at standard pressure of 3 bar and at 4 bar (1 bar boost) should be less. So injectors will be on or over the limit of stock fuel pump at max duty.. There is one rule that capacity of fuel pump should be at least 20% more than sum of all injector. And another recommendation is that duty cycle of fuel injectors shouldn't exceed 80%. In my opinion and for safety reason the pump is good to be upgraded with something more powerful and new, for example Walbro 255l/h at 3 bar. Bigger injectors that can be used are from Punto GT/Alfa 3.0 v6 (part number: 0 280 150 701), they flow around 240cc/min at 3 bar. And enough for this post. Thanos have to be pleased .

Thanks! I don't have good pictures of the car like most members of the forum , so it's a little embarrassing to show not beautiful pictures in this forum. When I go to Croatia at one of your alfa events , you can make some pictures of the car with your cars,that should be good for this forum. But my car have to be in the back . Аnd let's move on. More powerful turbocharger and intercooler are present. So here comes the control of unwanted boost and more specific the dump valve. GTV V6 tb like all serial turbo cars have recirculated dump valve. It's made by Bosch and uses diaphragm. The principle is unwanted boost pressure to be returned back to intake, because it is already measured by the AFM/MAF. But over the years that diaphragm recirculating dump valve loose it characteristics and sometimes the diaphragm breaks. For cars with AFM/MAF (like GTV V6 tb) is highly recommended to be used such type of dump valve, so the optimal variant is serial one to be changed with aftermaket recirculated dump valve which don't have diaphragm and will be more reliable over the years (and maybe quicker). But the medal have other side and it is the noise from dumping to atmosphere valve, that blow-off sound . For cars with AFM/MAF the only variant is dual piston BOV(Blow-Off valve) with which the car will not turns off at idle. If you install single piston BOV on car with AFM/MAF it will turns off every time it start to work at idle. But for car with MAP - Mass Air Pressure sensor (speed density concept) any time of BOV can be used. I will return on the variant for dual piston BOV on car with AFM/MAF. The "advantage" is the sound of BOV when you lift off the throttle on boost, but disadvantages are more rich mixture at lift of off the throttle and respectively more fuel consumption at this moment. The rich mixture can foul your spark plugs over the time. The combustion at this moments will not be optimal and can lead to unburned fuel in the exhaust. And unburned fuel in the exhaust will affect oxygen sensor reading and from that will lead changes by ECU and ... . So if you can suppress the racer in you then you will made the right decision and use a recirculated BOV. But if you plan to change the ECU with aftermarket and then use "speed density" concept with MAP you can use whatever BOV you like because ECU will calculate the mixture from pressure at intake manifold and not from measured air by AFM/MAF. With more free flow intake the sound from dump valve (recirculated or to atmosphere) will be increased. I like BOV sound very much , so you can guess what type I chose . So I bought Forge Motorsport dual piston BOV (i like the parts from that brand ). Made from billet aluminium. Very nice. I don't know with what spring it come, but If it don't perform well I can buy another springs and to tune it for me. So this will be end of this post .

It's so sad that you think to sell the car . Probably is very expensive to have two cars in Croatia and you can't afford it. In Bulgaria many automotive enthusiasts have two (or more) cars-one "special" and another cheap everyday car (and most of them don't have so much money) I have made a check about weight of some models OZ wheels: -OZ Superturismo WRC 17x7 - 9.7kg -OZ Superturismo GT 17x7 - 9.4kg 17x7.5 - 9.75kg 17x8 - 10.4kg -OZ Superleggera 17x7 - 6.9kg 17x8 - 7.2kg -OZ Ultraleggera 17x7 - 7.3kg 17x8 - 7.7kg And for comparison . -Alfa romeo GTV 17x7.5 - 11.5kg So probably I was thinking about leggera's wheels when wrote that they are "heavy" .

More info about the car -> Squadra Tuning Spider 2.8 V6 turbo .

In tonight "episode" I will continue on the path of air. After filter the air is "pumped" to engine by compressor side of turbocharger. But boosted air have increased it's temperature which lead to less oxygen and respectively less power. So here comes the intercooler. GTV 2.0 V6 tb have side mount intercooler with "in" and "out" situated on same side. The advantage of this is shorter piping for air. For stock car it is enough and probably for chipped car with stock turbo setup (I think that chipped car driven hard at hot day will suffer from hot air). But for car with upgraded turbo setup should be considered more powerful and efficient intercooler. So bigger and front mounted intercooler (FMIC) have to replace stock one. I'm not fan of the chinese performance parts, so I don't want to install some universal chinese intercooler (but most do that and are happy). I start liked one model Forge motorsport intercooler, it is at fairly good price, I think that should be enough for my setup and because of it's small dimensions will be more easy to be installed at back of the bumper. But I also look around for second hand good brand intercoolers and come across one bigger and made a decision to buy it. This is Forge motorsport intercooler. I don't know the exact model and never mind (the guy from which I bought it said that is from S3 or Leon Cupra, I've already forgot). The dimension of the core are 625x175x80 mm (Length x Height x Width). The plan was to be made custom end tanks (by the men who should made full exhaust system, nothing new for him ). First because with that centrally located in height "in" and "out" will blocked the path of the air pipes by two convex bars at the front of the car. It's dificult to me to explain so like they say - one picture is more that thousand words . GTV_front_bars.bmp (interesting thing is that I found this picture when searching in google and it is from this forum , I will write something in that topic later) Other thing that I want to change is diameter of "in" and "out". I think that they are 51mm, but I'm not sure and can't measure it soon. I think for 2.25"(57mm), 2.5"(63mm) or 2.75"(70mm) diameter of input and output (probably 2.5"). Air piping have to be made with aluminium pipes and some silicone joints for damping of vibrations. And that will be end for tonight.

Thanos wait for later in the series, stay tuned . Alfaduden, the dyno play important role for real tuning of one car, not only for maximum figures. I prefer the tuning of a car to be made at the dyno . I haven't measured my car yet. But for real comparison of the values, measurement should be made on the same dyno or at least on the same type of dynos. Here in Bulgaria measurement of 2 wheel drive car cost around 40E. But I don't expect good results from my car in their current form , because of non originals and very crushed exhaust manifolds, old turbo etc, but thats another theme. So it's time for the tonight chapter . It's about "Intake". I like performance things, but I also like they to be made in such fashion as if they was made that way in the first place . In the beginning of a plan I wanted to be close to stock appearance of "engine bay vision". And thus I planed to remain stock airbox. It's a little away from the engine and get air from front left side of the car, so should be sufficient. The air filter of GTV V6 tb is the only panel filter from all GTV range (correct me if I'm wrong ) and is not very big (a friend of mine with 145 1.6 boxer told me that his is bigger ). And after all I bought this K&N panel filter. But the best way is with cone filter directly to the compressor housing or with straight pipe (SIP-straight intake pipe) from filter to turbo or to AFM/MAF and then to turbo (if you use one ). In that way, from what I have read, you will gain faster spooling of the turbo and inevitable - loud intake sucking noise and louder dump valve (and that is personal taste). My latest plan is to use dry cone filter and to remove airbox with some shield for protection of water . In the first place of my list is Apexi Power Intake filter (it has a lot of fake copies!) and the second is RamAir universal filter (cheaper than Apexi Power Intake). I have read one very interesting old test for air filters (professionally made by some performance magazine I think), it's no longer available as you can see from the link, but you can see pictures from the test. The test have two categories - engine power and cleaning capabilities. The Apexi was the winner for each category and overall of coarse. You will be amazed of result for dust of the other filters from pictures in the link. Enough for tonight and this chapter .

After acquisition of the "disco potato" I begin to research and look around for other parts for the prospective project. I no longer remember the exact order of buying of next parts after turbo, so should arrange then in my opinion . For tight fit of the turbo on exhaust system i bought these gaskets for turbine housing. I think that my order is for one package, but they send to me two . These gaskets are stainless steel multi-layers. They can be used with many turbochargers that have T25 exhaust inlet flange and T25/T28 exhaust outlet flange. But they are not mandatory! With well made exhaust manifold and downpipe which make tight contact with the turbo even they are rejected by someone due to probability of splitting and some piece of them to go to the turbine wheel (very bad thing!). From the same company ("Kinugawa") I bought also that "oil feed line kit". It include - 105cm Braided Steel Teflon hose, 11mm to AN 4 banjo Adapter, Cooper crush washer x2, 11mm x 1.0 banjo bolt with 0.8mm mm hole( oil restrictor 0.4375in - 24 ), Adapter Tee 1/8 NPT. The above spec is taken from ad. Ball bearing turbochargers need oil restrictor, because they required less oil for lubricating. But in the package with turbo there was oil restrictor and also gaskets for oil and water lines. All in all nothing special in this post, i just wanted to spent some money on the car to feel good .

Let's write some things in my topic. First of all I want to apologize for the quality of the pictures! They were made in one go with telephone! Some time after changes mentioned in the first post I began to think about buying of other performance car with bigger tuning potential, with lots of performance parts on the market at "good prices" (as far as this can be said for performance improvements ) and with many developed projects and info on the web. The cars on which I focus my attention was Subaru Impreza WRX STI "bugeye"('01-'03) or "blobeye"('03-'05), especially second one. I don't wanted to sell my GTV and thought to keep it and the serious stuffs to be made on the creature of Subaru Tecnica International . After some time of researching of above mentioned cars , primarily on performance stuffs, I again change my mind . That plan probably would too difficult. At that time I was wondering what to do and one day I saw auction for Garrett GT2860RS ("disco potato") at Ebay.co.uk. Brand new, unused in the box. After little reflection I told to one friend of mine to bid for it with exact limit (I haven't got account) and whatever gets. And after the end of auction I have win this package The exact turbocharger is: Garrett GT2860RS, 0.86A/R turbine housing, T25 exhaust flange, oil and water cooler with internal wastegate. The original "disco potato" . The smaller 0.64 A/R was offered later (such uses Bruno Galrito on his GTV ). Turbine housing A/R (Area/Ration) plays an important role for boost response and turbo operating range. Smaller A/R is for quicker boost rise but at the expense of high backpressure at high engine speed and more "tough breathing" of the engine. Larger A/R have delay in spool in comparison with smaller A/R, but less backpressure at high engine speed and more power respectively. This is why aftermarket turbochargers are offered with choices of exhaust housing A/R. Compressor Housing A/R don't have much influence on turbocharger performance. Original GTV turbocharger also uses T25 exhaust flange, but downpipe flange is different. The space in the engine bay is limited and this is a little bigger turbocharger. In short this is not plug and play turbo for GTV 2.0 V6 tb. Custom made exhaust manifolds and downpipe should be made to fit. My plan was for full custom made exhaust system from stainless steel - manifolds, downpipe, flexible pipe, 2.75" (70mm) from turbo backward with two mufflers in parallel with two end tips each . And I know a guy very good at these stuffs in my hometown . Because GTVs engine bay get very hot (even in standard form and with tubular manifold even hotter) I plan to use exhaust heat wrap for exhaust manifold (and maybe turbo shield for turbine housing). I prefer titanium one, because it can withstand very high temperatures . Тhus the main source of heat in the engine bay (exhaust manifold) will be limited and the heat will stay where should be - inside of exhaust. The gases remain their high temperature and therefore move faster, which is good thing . Exhaust heat wrap have good effect with tubular manifold, but it is not recommend for stock, log type manifolds. So enough for single post. Soon to be continued ...

Wow! So many alfas, you are a collector! Did you have some other cars or just alfas? Where did you keep all these car . Please make topic for GTVs and Spider in "Ours 916" section. Show us pictures off them all . I'm glad that you join this community . P.S. German with so many non german cars (especially italian) is a little strange to me .