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BRX0804

Project Alfa - Philippines

102 posts in this topic

Filip,

 

Points well taken and highly appreciated.  Well the thing is if someone really goes for 500+hp car they would really need a lot of tinkering on the chassism brakes, safety etc etc on the alfa.   The high horsepower will create a lot of tremendous load on the chassis.  The current recaro seats of the alfa will not do.  Installation of a roll cage and race seats would be required by then.  At this time I will be satisfied for now with the 300+hp of my engine.  The added 5 point seat belts are just an extra safety precaution and its mounts are well thought of to my 181cm body frame.

 

I am not racing my GTV nor am I going to street rod  this car.  This is basically one of  our show cars here in our Tuning garage.  We are currently working on a lot of Japanese and Euro cars here now.  The GTV is just my baby... :thumbsup:

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Kunev,  Here is some serious horsepower coming.  A friend of mine left his GT35 turbocharger in our shop because he had no budget for the install.  This is a fast spooling turbo because we had modified the internals and changed the turbine wheels and machined the internals.  The air inlet is 4-in from 3-in of my CT20 turbo. I will not do any major changes in my turbo piping.  I will just fabricate an adaptor and do some tweaking on some adjustments on the pipes.  This turbo should easily produce around 400hp+ easily ones installed. :thumbsup:

 

I will be upgrading my radiators too because I am experiencing overheating problems.  This occurred when I rebuilt my CT20.  I must be running lean.  The turbo must be running much better than before.  Even if I adjusted the fuel mixture, I believe with the horsepower I will be producing a bigger radiator must be needed.

 

Right now, my alfa is in the shop as we are working on the underchassis.   If you guys have any suggestions on the stiffening of the undersides of the GTVs let me know.  We don't plan to buy any aftermarket parts as we can fabricate all of them with the proper materials in our shop.   It will be too expensive for me to import them anyways. :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Filip,

 

Do you have a sort of diagram on the proper installation of a 4-point seat belt somehow?  With the new turbos I may now have to seriously look into your seatbelt issue... :respect:

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Right now, my alfa is in the shop as we are working on the underchassis.   If you guys have any suggestions on the stiffening of the undersides of the GTVs let me know.  We don't plan to buy any aftermarket parts as we can fabricate all of them with the proper materials in our shop.   It will be too expensive for me to import them anyways. :D

Try to route a brace between the bolts that holds the front bushings on the wishbones to the subframe.

 

Strut brace.

 

If you have the old version of 15 with rubber bushings at the bolt holes, dismantle it and remove the rubber bushes, bolt it up again with washers and fasten the washers with two weld spots, take it back down and weld the washers properly to 15.

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Replace the rubber bushings in the rear suspension with polyuretan bushes.

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Filip,

 

Do you have a sort of diagram on the proper installation of a 4-point seat belt somehow?  With the new turbos I may now have to seriously look into your seatbelt issue... :respect:

 

There are some diagrams in this thread: http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=63750 

The forum is in English but you "get the picture"  :lol:

I've basically just read a lot on the internet about this problem. I regret that I never gathered any sources or saved any texts.

 

I see two paths for your car:

  1. Installing a proper roll cage with a harness bar (shoulder straps should ideally not be longer than 20 cm), bucket seats that fit you well and 6-point harnesses. 
  2. Ditching the cage and constructing a harness bar that looks like this

harnessbar.jpg

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:banana:Guys,

 

Thanks for the tips.....

 

By the way, I was in the notion that some one would like to donate their front and rear calipers to me.  Send me a message, I can pay for the package and shipping cost, if ever.  Please do include the brake lines.  I am only after the ends of the brake lines because i will only use the ends of it.  The rubber hoses will taken out, instead braided ones will be installed. :rolleyes:

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Hm, this is chinese turbo and it is journal bearing, right? Some more info about it? Is it a new unit or second hand one? Probably your modifications are ported turbine housing and putting another turbine wheel inside. What is the turbine flange and A/R of turbine housing (that is very important for spool)? From what I have read, I'm a not a fan of chinese turbochargers (not very durable, bad response and power). But hope your last long enough.

About straightening of the chassis. The GTV is very solid car in my opinion (and heavy, because of that). This is not some soft old car. Think for upper and probably lower strut brace and maybe some for the cut plate at the front and that is enough in my opinion (if you think for your car as a street car).

About seat harnesses I also think that you go too far ... 

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Kunev,

The turbocharger came from Korea and are brand new but we modified its internals. Yes you are right Chinese turbos dont last long. We have been doing turbo internal upgrades for quite some time already and have lasted for years. The internals are from GARRET. This was modified for fast spooling.

Will see what my chassis specialist can do for the upper and lower struts. We have to fabricate our own because we have a different engine.

This is a project car that we to show off in small car shows here. we buckle up on the 4 ponint seat belt when test the car in race track or on a dragstrip. Other than we use the existing 3 point seat belt.:$;-)

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Guys, I have been reading many posts about proper wheel fitments to our GTV.  I am right now researching ahead on the wheels I would like to place on my GTV.  My plans are to get a GTV Cup spoiler kit and 18-in wheels.   Can you guys give me suggestions as to the wheel offsets and wheel width.  I was looking at installing 8-8.5 for fronts and 9-10-in rears so I will not need any spacers.  But these are just thoughts and considerations only.

 

I know we have PCD 98 but I don't mind to buy a spacer adapter that can fit PCD114 so that I have a wider selection of wheels. As always thanks for all the inputs.  OZ and SPARCO (to compliment my seat belt harness) are in my radar.  A dealer in Hong Kong will bring them over for me.  No customs duties in Hong Kong :thumbsup:

 

I believe at the end of the day each one of us have their peculiar choices. :clap:

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Just installed the KONI's with stock springs.  Well they respond much much better than before.  Love zipping around the traffic on this small ROCKET!!!    But the ride height is too high. Seems like I have set up an ALFA RALLY CAR... ;).  I don't like to cut springs or  machine pressing the springs to lower it down because there are some tendency of imbalance handling.  We have done this in the past.  If it  was just for urban showing off it would be ok.  But I do have plans of riding  this to the race track for some cool and fast rides. :P

 

I suspect that the ride height is tall because the former owner may have changed his springs with a similar jap springs!!!  Honestly, with the konis and the jap springs they ride pretty well but it does not seem very correct.  The former suspension were Kayabas at the rear and for  the McPherson, the former owner cut the shocks and replaced the insides with Mitsubishi parts!!! :huh:

 

I may have to buy the H&R lowering springs that comes with it...... This should solve the stance and the ride quite well.

 

I have installed polybushes on the front A-arms and most of the links, bearings, boots, etc are brand new.  No rattles under the chassis except for some interior bolts and parts which I have yet to secure again..... <_<  thread locks should solve them.   The new Tie Rods from the power steering came from a Toyota Corolla wherein we just modified the threads and machined it to reduce length. The diameter of the corolla tie rod was a bit bigger so this posed no problems and should be much stronger.  4 wheel alignment, camber, toe ins were done based on what was sent to this post. :thumbsup:

 

Up next twin caliper brake system (no brembos or large disk)  :P, bigger aluminum radiators (I am experiencing overheating problems with the small radiator)  :D, chassis stiffening bars (FR/RR upper and lower strut bars)  B)

 

As I have said don't do this project unless you have the patience, an open budget, a shop and a motorhead. I am a bachelor so nobody is heckling on my finances.... 

 

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I will be ordering these 18-incher for my alfa.....

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By the way I did install sound deadening materials inside my car.  There were 2 choices I made to do this:  1 was using a 1- 1.5in foam insulation or using these sound deadening sheets.  I believe they are made of asphalt of some sort.  These are used by audio buffs.  The trade off is that these sheets are pretty heavy.

 

Nevertheless, I did install  these sound deadening sheets. ^_^

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I am experiencing overheating problems because of my recent tuning and upgrades.  Add to this is the fact that we experience from 37-40deg C heat here.  Do remember I live near the equator and are a tropical country.  Our cars have different cooling system than in other countries.

 

I will be installing a larger Tomei 2 rows aluminum radiator which has a width of 25-in.  Actually, it barely cleared the ends of the hood clamps mound and was a very hard to fit in.  Had to do some metal bending. :D

 

2 SPAL 11-in Pull Fans will augment the airflow of the radiator and engine bay.  There are 2 remote fans also located below the engine bay to suck out air inside the engine bay.  They are remotely controlled which is needed when I am in a traffic jam.

 

 

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Guys,

 

My second alfa is about to be delivered to me anytime this July 2014.  This will have the original 2.0 V6 Turbo engine.  I would like to ask  if there is a way to replace the cylinder head of this 12 valve engine for the cylinder head of the 3.0 24V engine???  If so, what would do I still need to do in order for this engine head swap to work?  ECU, etc etc???  This is a matter of planning only because if not, I will just stick with the 12valve and just increase the displacement and stage 2 cams..... B) B)

 

Now I will soon have a 2 GTV's on my stable.  One with an original GTV engine and another with a souped up 3sgte Engine :happy0045: :happy0045:

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Was very busy on my other cars.......

 

My alfa gtv engine has been set up with new mods... Evo 8 560cc Fuel Injectors, 2-SPAL 11-in fans, 3-Rows full size aluminum radiators, new radiator stainless steel pipes and H&R Springs.  the fuel injectors were registering 650cc to 700cc amazing though we didn't need that much for now but when I upgrade the internals of the turbo we may eventually need to tap them.  Attached are the transition of the engine bay. I believe you can guess which is stage 1 to 3.

 

Other projects in the works are:  Engine strut bars and lower braces, new 18-in mags, zender rear wings, side skirts, front and rear fenders. carbon bucket seats, etc. 

 

Note:  most of what is being done here are custom fabrications

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I see you've made an essential upgrade of the car.....flirt horns(as we call them in Sweden), scares the shit out of girls at red light crosswalks. :)

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Damgreg, I will sell the seat whoever maybe interested with them.  Just give me a fair price I will sell.  The problem is the shipping cost from Asia to Europe though.  Though I expect these to be available sometime after !Q2015 yet.  I will yet have to place the order for the Bride bucket seats with the Alfa logo on it.

 

GTV TB, I recently hid the airhorn under the left side headlight covers and replaced the oil catch tank with a CUSCO one.  Up next on the engine is replacing the internals of the turbocharger with specially ordered internals (turbine fins, shaft, bearings, etc.) from Garret USA.  My friend has made such an upgrade in one of his cars and wow it had tremendous hp.  The current CT20 turbo in principle will perform like a GT28 or GT30 when finished and fast spooling too.  I will go with this project because buying a bigger turbo will cost me more as I have to do repiping.  I do also plan to replace the ECU Management from Greddy to Haltech 1000 as well.  My engine should easily hit to 350 to 400hp when finished.   A specially fabricated  engine strut is in the works as we speak.

 

Will these wheels look great on the car?

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The problem with upgrading an engine to higher horsepower is stopping and chassis integrity.  This will mean I also have to upgrade my brakes and do chassis stiffening.... :blush::unsure::blink: 

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330mm Brembo caliper upgrade with some Pagid pads?

 

Might be worth trying to source an Ultra Racing rear ARB and then custom fab and new front ARB?

 

Regarding the wheels, I think they would look fantastic on the car and I like the colour too! :D

 

Fatnastic build you have here and please keep us posted and maybe post up a few videos one day ;)

Edited by Vengeance

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Those seats look great and the turbo mod sounds like fun! I prefer 17" although the Blackline rim design is pretty sweet... 

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BRX0804, on 05 Jan 2015 - 12:26, said:

 I recently hid the airhorn under the left side headlight covers

Sublime......discreet until you press the horn button .. very sophisticated. :happy0045:

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Sorry been very busy with work lately.   Here is my latest custom on my suspension.  I initially had Koni Sports Shocks on my front.  But then one of  the guys here badly needed a front shocks so I  sold mine to him.

 

What I did was a former friend of mine had a VW Corrado and had Koni Coil Overs on them but he then went back to Sports Shocks.  He had then sold his Corrado to a friend of ours and sold the pair of front coil overs to me.   So I used the Koni Coil Overs and converted to fit into the GTV.  I took out the front axle holder of the coil over and the OEM Shock.   The OEM Axle holder was then welded to the Koni Coil Overs.   I then had to  machine the top strut part to fit into the Top Shock Mount Bearings.  I then painted the axle holder to Koni Yellow colors for a bit of pizzaz.  Voila .... a new set of coil overs on my alfa GTV.  The coilover worked much better than the sports shocks most probably because of the 330HP my engine is producing.

 

WARNING.  unwelding and welding of axle mounts may destroy the internals of the shock absorbers.  This is a long process and will require a professional welder to  do.

 

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Squadra916 is the largest international community for owners and fans of Alfa Romeo GTV and Spider 916 cars.